Wednesday 29 May 2013

Himalayan Trek overview

"We go to the mountains because they are places of peace and beauty"...

I found this quote in a book that didn't reference the author, and I didn't find it online. Despite the challenges and the lacking comforts and facilities we become so used to, overwhelming joy was unlimited on our trip to the Himalaya. Tremendous grandeur and spectacular visual stimulation was around every corner, and found with every turn of the head. It was an exercise in constant humility.

Speaking of which, I must point out one of the most impressive sights that never ceased to amaze me on the journey, and it wasn't the natural beauty. The work ethic of the Nepali people is nothing short of incredible. The porters who work tirelessly to carry a myriad of supplies, food, equipment, tools, lumber, you name it, up steep mountain sides, loooong days of hauling, for days on end, and with weights on their backs that would cripple us. I just cant impress upon you how mind blowing it is. We saw guys that couldn't have weighed more than 50kgs, carrying loads of double that. I saw a guy with a generator on his back, there were loads made up of multiple sheets of glass that was 6x4 feet in size, other times it was corrugated iron, 3x4 inch lengths of lumber or plywood. There were logs of wood that I could barely move metres on my own, but they carry, slowly, all day. It made me think twice about what a hard days work is, be it physical or white collar. We are all so very lucky to earn what we do in return for our efforts.

The return flight from Lukla to Kathmandu was a little harrowing, but exhilarating, more so than landing there. The experience with the airport and the airline in this tiny little mountain town was incredibly different from what we know and expect in our society. There are no rules, no certainties, you can't depend on anything to be the way it "should" be. Time does not command the same respect here. Either way, we made it back to Kathmandu. The cab ride back to our hotel on the outskirts of Thamel was somewhat less shocking than the first time arriving here. The fact it is a national holiday today helps a little, with less traffic, and less congestion.

I am still struggling to comprehend what we have just done. In reviewing the photographs from Tara's camera, we rediscovered the story of our trip in pictures, and we were both very gripped by the re-experience. We saw some of the most astonishing views and panoramas that our eyes may ever be lucky enough to absorb and we experienced many things that contrast wildly from the norms of our world. There is so much story to tell, but where to begin is hard to decide. I can't wait to review my own images, but I will have to.

Best memories?

Landing in a tiny plane at Lukla after seeing the sheer size of the mountains from the plane window for the first time. These mountain ranges are enormous, and we are ants.

On day 2, the 800m ascent into Namche is torturous, especially carrying your own bags. Being able to lay eyes on Everest when you are about 85% of the way up, at the "first view" point, without clouds hiding it's presence. Priceless moment.

Finally lumbering in to Namche Bazaar to Bob Marleys "One Love" playing at the "Rock & Blues Bar", absolutely wasted from the climb. Never been so happy to hear Bob...

Himalayan Thunderstorms.

Incredible Rhododendron forests in white, pink, & yellow.

Meeting Glacier scientists at Gokyo and picking their brains about their work after sitting and listening to the Glacier behind the town creaking, cracking and groaning. Great people with very interesting jobs.

Ascending Gokyo Ri for 2 hours at dawn to 5300m, arriving at a vista of mountain peaks, glaciers and lakes that weakens the knees and brings tears of joy to my eyes just thinking about it. 2 hours of soaking up this glorious view including Everest and another 8000 plus bohemoth on the Nepali-Tibetan border had to be the highlight of the trip, and one of the highlights of my life to this point. Topping this occasion at any time in the future will be very difficult.

Met Sir Edmund Hillary's niece, in Phortse and discovered a lot about the festivities planned for the 60th anniversary of his successful climb on the 29th of May.

The only sunrise that I witnessed that brought colour to the clouds in the sky. Pangboche, 4:30 am. For an hour, the skyline was incredible. Ama Dablam, Lohtse, Nuptse, Everest, with whisps of clouds and crimson-pink hues. By 5:30, the cloud rolled up the valley from Namche and completely blanketed us in. By 8am it was gone again and Everest was visible from our cozy spot on the deck outside our room.

Hot shower in Namche after 2 weeks without showering was very VERY nice. So was the westernised food, cans of Everest Beer, movies, an internet connection (albeit very slow), and some tasty baked goods like cakes and croissants.

Getting our tickets confirmed (not that that means anything) and then finally being checked in for our flight out of Lukla after 3 days waiting was a big relief.

Lifting off the tarmac as the runway drops away to a cliff underneath you at Lukla is worth cheering for. I will post a video once bandwidth will allow.

It was a hell of a journey, and the real story is in the details, which we will work on covering over the coming days between us. If we can get the time here in Bangkok. I am elated at what we have achieved and the scenes we witnessed. The people we met along the way both local and foreign really add character to the story, as does the soundtrack we played at some of the key moments along the way.

Below is a very few of my favourite photos that tell the story. All pictures are by Tara.

I don't seem to be able to caption properly from this app so I'll just do a list...

The landing strip at Lukla through the windshield of the plane.
Large slab of rock with carvings at the top of Namche
First view of Everest
One of our hosts, this lady ran her own lodge in Dole. The boy was a 16 year old porter who also stayed with us that evening.
The mountains across Gokyo's 3rd lake
The view back down the valley over the lake and Glacier, with Cholatse, Kangtega and Thamserku lurking
The worlds highest peak
Prayer flags on Gokyo Ri
Ama Dablam appears on the trail to Pangboche
Helicopter on its way up the Khumbu valley, Everest peak is top left
Everest just peaks over Nuptse ridge, view from Tengboche
Our shadows on the trail back to Namche
























1 comment:

  1. OMG, Tristan you are such a fabulous writer! I felt I was right there with you. THANK YOU for taking the time to write it all out and share it with us.

    Tara, what FABULOUS pictures! So artistic in many cases. Good for you girl!

    Love you lots. Look forward to more.

    :-*

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